How to care for your GSD skin

German Shepherd – Skin

The attractive coat of the German Shepherd can unfortunately be quite attractive to parasites too. Beneath the coat on the skin itself, hot spots can be created by skin infections, which can arise from a poor diet or from an infected cut.

Flea and similar parasite infections are best dealt with by regular flea treatments from the high street or pet shop. The other main precaution is to make sure your dog gets a bath and/or thorough brushing after swimming or running near bushes, etc.

Minor lesions in the German Shepherd skin will usually heal quickly. They can be treated with antiseptic cream but in many cases a few licks from your dog will heal them quickly. If an infection hasn’t been discovered previously, excessive licking is usually the first clue of something more serious, and if it is not a parasite then it could well be that a “hot spot” has been created through infection of the lowest skin layers. Common antibiotics will normally cure these but any difficulty arises through your dog’s continuous licking of the area.

The most practical solution is to cover the area in a way that prevents your dog tearing any covering off, which can be a challenge. Depending on where the cut is, either wrapping and taping the area with gauze may work, or a sock on a foot or leg, or even a jumper or tea shirt to cover the torso. The other common solution is to apply the cone-like collar to prevent your dog getting at the infected spot.

Callouses are the other common skin problem but usually only form in older dogs through constant rubbing, often due to the dog’s posture when sitting or lying against or on a hard surface. Although callouses can be treated and discomfort eased with creams or veterinary treatment, in many cases they will simply reform and become a fact of the older dog’s life without being a major problem.

How to care and groom your GSD

German Shepherd Coat – Care & Grooming

Your pets coat in important to there health.

German Shepherd coats have two layers, more pronounced in the long-haired variety. The inner layer is dense and quite soft to keep your dog warm whilst the outer, more coarse and longer layer serves to keep bushes and other objects away from the interior.

The sheen of the coat is a good, visible indicator to your dog’s health. Grooming and brushing are almost secondary to maintaining the coat’s condition through a good diet. Sources of high protein and high fat, the latter through a good-quality kibble are best. The prime source of protein should be meat in the form of beef, chicken or lamb. German Shepherds will eat and benefit from vegetables such as carrots and small amounts of greens but these should be in kept in moderation for the GSD as its origin is primarily carnivorous.

Brushing your German Shepherd should be done at least twice per week and depending on the type of coat, it’s best to use a range of brushes, ranging from the metal rake type and good quality stiff brushes to finer ones with a small pair of round-edge scissors in reserve to cut out any mats that form, especially near the ears and lower sides of the face in long-haired varieties. Mats in the coat itself will be found more easily by initially brushing against the direction of the fur. Whilst most brushing is done in the fur’s directiopn, this will more often than not cover small mats as they are forming.

Bathing your German Shepherd is needed to reduce odours and especially after swimming, but must not be overdone as this will reduce the natural oils essential to the coat condition. Depending on the variety of your dog and the thickness of its coat, a little trial and error may be required to find the right shampoo to use, even amongst good quality ones or dedicated dog shampoo. I found with the long-haired GSDs I had that a baby shampoo worked very well, used sparingly on  some occasions depending on the state of the coat. In all cases, it is important to ensure that the shampoo is thoroughly rinsed out, or dandruff and temporary deterioration in the coat will occur.

The coat of your German Shepherd needs to be cleaned often so care for your gsd’s coat.

German Shepherd Ears: Care and Treatment

German Shepherd Ears: Care and Treatment.

German Shepherd Dogs (GSDs) are very healthy dogs but like most breeds susceptible to particular ailments. A German Shepherd’s ears are one of her strongest attributes but need to be kept clean and can be prone to infections.
The usual sources that should be kept in check to prevent potential inflammations are:

  • Long hair can get into the ear both through growing from around the back of the ear and shedding.
  • As German Shepherds like to brush past bushes and through grass when out walking, all kinds of detritus, especially seeds, get into their ears.
  • Occasionally, overactive glands in the ear secrete the equivalent of ear wax which can get trapped quite deep in the ear.
  • Water from swimming or bathing often lodges for a short time, despite the dog’s efforts to shake it out vigorously.

The usual telltale sign of ear irritation, in the majority of cases usually of a minor nature, will be your German Shepherd trying to remove the irritation herself. At this point it is always worth checking for and if necessary removing anything obvious. In my experience, if nothing can be seen, it can be left for a short time and see if a problem recurs, because in many cases it will clear itself.

Cleaning the ear & removing detritus:

Keeping your pet’s fur trimmed around the outer ear, preventing matting below the ear as well are good precautions. Don’t cut the fur too short or it can very occasionally become ingrowing, creating further problems.
Dealing with something inside the upper ear must be done with great care and I would strongly advise not probing too much in your dog’s ears. However, in an adult dog, the ears are quite large and a gentle wash with a soft cloth around the top of the ear or even using cotton buds on areas you can clearly see, providing you make no attempt to go beyond that, will resolve the majority of cases. Mixing a very low concentration (say about 5%) vinegar with water makes a solution that will usually help.

If your pet continues beyond two to three days to show signs of discomfort, then a visit to the vet is in order.

In my 40 years’ experience with dogs including long-haired German Shepherds, despite many instances of ear irritation, using the above practices has meant it has never escalated. However, this is one of those ailments that is worth being aware how to deal with in these easy stages, but like most, at some point it’s time for veterinary expertise.

So if you get a gsd please please do not neglect them by locking them up and leaveing them. because these dogs needs a lot of attention like children need so if you are to busy to properly care for them.

How to care for your German shepherds teeth

The cleanness of your German shepherds teeth are very important to there health so follow these steps to take good care of your best friend.

First: Begin slowly by merely touching the muzzle and lifting the lips of your GSD to expose the teeth and gums. After a few days, begin handling the mouth area gently even to the point of eventually stroking the GSD’s teeth and gums with a cloth covered finger or a toothbrush made specifically to fit onto your finger.

Second: Introduce the German Shepherd to the canine toothbrush and toothpaste. Important: always use a toothpaste specifically formulated for dogs; DO NOT use your own toothpaste with your German Shepherd. Put a little bit of the dog toothpaste on your finger and allow the dog to sample it.

Next, put a small amount on several of the dogs teeth and gums. Later, place a small amount of toothpaste on the brush and gently brush one tooth and adjoining gumline.

Last: Begin brushing the teeth of your GSD. Over time increase the amount of teeth brushed, eventually working your way to the back teeth.

It is okay to keep German Shepherd’s mouth closed as you brush. Most plaque occurs mainly on the outside of the dogs teeth so this will be fine as well as easier for the dog.

Use small back-and-forth or circular strokes at a 45º angle or so when cleaning a German Shepherds teeth, gently brushing all of the teeth that you can.

Over time, once the habit of tooth brushing has been established, brush your German Shepherds teeth every day if possible, or at least several times per week to maintain maximum dental health.

Ear infection in your gsd puppy

How common are ear infections in dogs?

Infections of the external ear canal (outer ear) by bacteria or yeast, are one of the most common types of infections seen in dogs. This is called otitis externa.

Some breeds, such as Cocker Spaniels and Poodles, seem more prone to ear infections but they may occur in any breed.

What are the symptoms of an ear infection?

A dog with an ear infection is uncomfortable; his ear canals are sensitive. He shakes his head trying to get the debris and fluid out, and scratches his ears. The ears often become red and inflamed and develop an offensive odor. A black or yellowish discharge commonly occurs.

Don’t these symptoms usually suggest ear mites?

Ear mites can cause several of these symptoms, including a black discharge, scratching, and head shaking. Ear mite infections generally occur most commonly in puppies. Ear mites in adult dogs occur most frequently after a puppy carrying mites is introduced into the household. Sometimes ear mites will create an environment within the ear canal which leads to a secondary infection with bacteria and yeast (fungus). By the time the dog is presented to the veterinarian, the mites may be gone, but a significant ear infection remains.

Since these symptoms are similar and usually mean an infection, can I just go to the vet and get some medication?

There are several kinds of bacteria and at least one type of fungus which might cause an ear infection. Without knowing the kind of infection present, your veterinarian will not know which drug to use. In some cases the ear infection may be caused by a foreign body or tumor in the ear canal. Treatment with medication alone will not resolve these problems. Also, the dog must be examined to be sure that the eardrum is intact. Administration of certain medications can result in loss of hearing if the eardrum is ruptured. This determination is made by the veterinarian and must be done in the office.

How do vets find out which drug to use?

First, the ear canal is examined with an otoscope, an instrument that provides magnification and light. This permits a good view of the ear canal. This examination allows veterinarians to determine whether the eardrum is intact and if there is any foreign material in the canal. When a dog is in extreme pain and refuses to allow the examination, he must sometimes be completed under sedation or anesthesia.

The next step is to examine a sample of the material from the ear canal to determine which organism is causing the infection. This is called cytology. Examination of that material under the microscope is very important in helping the veterinarian choose the right medication to treat the inflamed ear canal.

How are ear infections treated? The results of the otoscopic examination and cytology tell the veterinarian what to do. If there is a foreign body or tick lodged in the ear canal, the dog is sedated so that it can be removed. As stated previously, some dogs have such a heavy buildup of debris that sedation is needed to cleanse the canal and examine it completely.

Cytologic study of debris from the ear canal dictates which drug to use. Sometimes it reveals the presence of more than one type of infection (i.e., a bacterium and a fungus, or two kinds of bacteria); this situation usually requires the use of multiple medications or a broad-spectrum medication.

An important part of the evaluation of the patient is the identification of underlying disease. Many dogs with chronic or recurrent ear infections have allergy problems or low thyroid function (hypothyroidism). If a underlying disease is found, it must be diagnosed and treated, if at all possible. If this cannot be done, the dog is less likely to have a favorable response to treatment. Also, the dog might respond temporarily, but the infection will relapse at a later time (usually when ear medication is discontinued).

What is the prognosis?

Nearly all ear infections that are properly diagnosed and treated can be cured. If an underlying cause remains unidentified and untreated, the outcome will be less favorable. A progress check may be needed before the process is completed.

How important is it to treat an ear infection?

Dogs with ear infections are miserable. Their ears are a source of constant pain resulting in head shaking and scratching. However, that is not the only problem. Head shaking and scratching can also cause broken blood vessels in the ear flap, requiring surgery, and chronic ear infections can penetrate the ear drum and result in an internal ear infection.

My dog’s ear canal is nearly closed. Is that a problem?

Closing of the ear canal is another result of a chronic ear infection. There are medications that can shrink the swollen tissues and open the canal in some dogs. Some cases will eventually require surgery.

What is the purpose of surgery?

The surgery for a closed ear canal is called a lateral ear resection. Its purposes are to remove the vertical part of the ear canal and to remove swollen tissue from the horizontal canal. Removing the vertical canal should be successful, but removal of large amounts of tissue from the horizontal canal is more difficult. In some cases, the ear canal is surgically obliterated. This solves the canal problem, but it leaves the dog deaf on that side.

What can be done if the ear canals are completely closed?

The most severe consequence of a chronic ear infection is total closure and hardening of the ear canal. When this occurs, the lateral ear resection will no longer be helpful. The appropriate surgery for this situation is an ear canal obliteration. The entire ear canal is surgically removed. Since severe scarring and calcification occur, this can be a lengthy surgical procedure requiring a skilled veterinary surgeon.

Is there anything I need to know about getting medication in the ear?

It is important to get the medication into the horizontal part of the ear canal. Be aware that the dog’s external ear canal is “L” shaped. The vertical canal connects with the outside of the ear; the horizontal canal lies deeper in the canal and terminates at the eardrum. The ear canal may be medicated by following these steps:

*
1.
Gently pull the ear flap straight up and hold it with one hand.
2.
Apply a small amount of medication into the vertical part of the ear canal while continuing to keep the ear flap elevated. Hold this position long enough for the medication to run down to the turn between the vertical and horizontal canal.
3.
Put one finger in front of and at the base of the ear flap, and put your thumb behind and at the base.
4.
Massage the ear canal between your finger and thumb. A squishing sound tells you that the medication has gone into the horizontal canal.
5.
Release the ear and let your dog shake his head. If the medication contains a wax solvent, debris will be dissolved so it can be shaken out.
6.
If another medication is to be used, apply it in the same manner.
7.
When all medications have been applied, clean the outer part of the ear canal and the inside of the ear flap with a cotton ball soaked with a small amount of rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol. Do not use cotton tipped applicators to do this as they tend to push debris back into the vertical ear canal.


Pleases care for your GSD the same way you would your self if your ears are bothering you.

Pictures of gsd puppys from one month to 12 month.

Picture of a one month old gsd puppy.

Picture of a two month old gsd puppy.

Picture of a three month old gsd puppy.

Picture of a four month old gsd puppy.

Picture of a five month old gsd puppy.

Picture of a six month old gsd puppy.

Picture of a seven month old gsd puppy.

Picture of a eight month old gsd puppy.

Picture of a nine month old gsd puppy.

Picture of a ten month old gsd puppy.

Picture of an eleven month old gsd pupy.

Picture of a twelve month old gsd puppy.

How to build your German Shepherd a house

So you want to build your German Shepherd a dog house. Just follow these easy steps to build your pet the house they need.

Design Basic

Size the house to fit the dog: It’s tempting to make a really roomy doghouse, but your dog won’t appreciate it. During cold months, your dog’s body heat keeps him or her warm. If the house is too big, the dog can’t generate enough heat to warm it. How big should a doghouse be? There’s no exact formula, but a good rule of thumb is to build it so your full-grown dog can walk in, turn around inside and stretch out completely.

Vent it well: In hot weather, good airflow will keep your dog from overheating. And in damp weather or cold weather, when the dog’s moist breath is steaming up the house, proper ventilation prevents mold from forming. Vents in the peaks of the roof will do the job as long as you leave the doorway open or just loosely cover it with a flap so there’s an adequate updraft.

Build it off the ground: This keeps the dog out of contact with damp soil. It also prevents the wood from rotting and extends the life of the doghouse.

Make it safe from the elements: Be sure water, wind and rain can’t enter. Generally, this means overhangs for doorways and vents, and tight seams everywhere.

Use dog-friendly materials: Anything that comes into contact with your pet must be safe for animals. That means you’ll make the floor, frame and walls from untreated softwood and plywood, rather than pressure-treated wood.

Customize to suit: Once the basics were covered, I looked at ways to improve on my previous design. First, I added a sheltered porch so our new dog could stay out of the sun and rain. I moved the doorway from the gable end to the porch side, for easy access. (I made the door pup-size for now. It can be enlarged later.) I also added insulation under the floor (to keep out cold in winter) and under the roof (to reduce heat in summer and retain it in winter). Finally, and this was a big improvement, I added a large clean-out door at the back of the house so I could easily tidy up inside. The result is a house with the flavor of a New England saltbox home. It’s based on the following basic design.

My house took about 12 hours to build, and the materials cost about $100. But you don’t need to go to these lengths to build a comfortable house for your pet. You can build a basic version in an afternoon from plywood, lumber and shingles. It’s a simple, sound design that handles a dog of 70 pounds or so. All framing is cut to just four lengths, shown as dimensions A, B, C and D in the diagram above. To change the overall size of the house, just change the four framing dimensions. For my saltbox design, I simply extended the rafters and base frame on one side to create the covered porch shown in the image that kicks off this article.

Step-by-Step Instructions: Framing

1. Build the base: With a tape measure, carpenter’s pencil and speed square, measure two 2-by-6s for lengths A and B, and cut those pieces to length with a chop saw or circular saw. Fasten the parts together with galvanized 12d nails or 3-inch outdoor screws (often sold as “deck” screws). Align the base frame with one corner of a plywood sheet, square up the frame if necessary, and then trace around it onto the plywood. Cut out the plywood floor with a circular saw and attach it to the base with galvanized 4d nails and a framing hammer. If you want to insulate the floor, do it now. Flip the base over and attach hard foam exterior-grade insulation with construction adhesive.

2. Build and attach the wall framing: First, make the corner posts; these are marked C on the illustration. You’ll need one 8-foot 2-by-4 and one 8-foot 2-by-2. Mark and cut each of these into four C lengths. Then nail the 2-by-2s to the 2-by-4s with 4d nails, as shown.

Next, build the top frame. You’ll need two 8-feet-long 2-by-4s. Mark and cut them to make two A lengths and two B lengths. Nail them together with 12d galvanized nails. Finally, attach the top frame to the posts with 7-inch angle clips and 4d nails, as shown.

Attach the completed wall-frame assembly to the base with 3-inch outdoor screws, two in each corner, driving them diagonally through pilot holes in the posts and into the base. This securely “tacks” the wall frame to the base; final fastening comes when you add the house walls.

3. Add the roof frame: To make the first rafter, mark and cut the last 8-foot 2-by-4 to length D. Then use a speed square to mark 30-degree angles at each end of the rafter. Cut the angles with a circular saw, and then use that rafter as a guide to mark and cut three more. Now cut the ridge beam – length B – from one 4-foot 2-by-4.

Drill pilot holes, then screw the rafters temporarily to the ends of the ridge beam with 3-inch outdoor screws. Test-fit the resulting roof frame on the wall frame, and mark where the rafters fit over the wall frame, as you’ll need to cut notches there. (The speed square will help you with the exact angles.) Unscrew the frame and cut the notches with a jigsaw or handsaw. Reassemble the roof frame with the screws, and then nail it to the top frame with 12d nails, or screw it in place with 3-inch outdoor screws.

4. Add the walls: Lay out the wall panels on the plywood, taking actual dimensions from the frame itself. Cut and install the sides first, then measure, cut and install the front and back (the gable ends). Note that the ends overlap the sides. All four pieces need to overhang the base by 11/2 inches. Fasten the siding to the wall framing and base with 4d galvanized nails or 11/2-inch outdoor screws.

Lay out and cut a door opening in one of the ends before you install it, sizing it to your dog. (An opening that’s a hair small will retain heat better than one that’s too big. Don’t worry, your dog will get in.) To draw the top for a round-top door, make a string compass. Cut the opening with a jigsaw fitted with a coarse woodcutting blade. After this end is installed, fill in the door bottom with a piece of 1-by-2, as shown in the drawing. This adds a bit of threshold and makes for a neat appearance. Use a power drill and a hole saw to make the optional 2-inch vent holes. Finish by cutting 1-by-2 trim to hide the corners where the plywood walls meet, and run it along the tops of the gables as well (see Image 3 and Image 4). Caulk the plywood corner seams before you nail the 1-by-2s in place; use 4d nails to attach the trim pieces.

5. Roof the house: Lay out and attach the plywood roof the same way you did the walls. Butt the pieces at the ridge, and make sure the roof overhangs the rafter ends by 2 inches on each side and 4 inches at each gable end. Add more insulation if you like: Use construction adhesive to glue rigid insulation inside the roof panels before you install them. With a hacksaw, cut the aluminum drip edge that will protect the plywood edges. Attach it to the roof with aluminum roofing nails. With a utility knife, cut strips of builder’s paper to fit across the roof, making them long enough to cover the drip edges. Install the paper with a staple gun, starting at the bottom of the roof and working up. When you add a new piece, overlap the lower one by 2 or 3 inches. Finally, cut and install the shingles, staggering the seams and attaching them with aluminum roofing nails. Stain or paint the doghouse, or leave it plain. Now you can call your dog!

 

image 1

 

image 2

 

image 3

 

 

image 4

 

 

 

Dimension Lumber for a Basic Doghouse

Nominal size and length Quantity needed Lengths to cut (see illustration) Number to cut
2-by-6, 8 foot 2 A, B 2, 2
2-by-2, 8 foot 1 C 4
2-by-4, 8 foot 5 C, A, B, D 4, 2, 3, 4
1-by-2, 8 foot 4 C, D

Threshold: 8, 4

First aid for your German Shepherd.

If you recognize your dog symptoms, you can provide effective first aid for an injury, illness or disease.

Recognizing the symptoms isn’t enough, however. You need a baseline for your dog. Symptoms can only be useful if you know how he is under “normal,” everyday conditions.

For example, if he suddenly starts scratching a lot, it could be a sign of an allergy or fleas. However, if he already scratches (perhaps due to an ongoing skin rash), you may think that the scratching is related to this condition. As a result, you might not inspect and treat him for fleas.

Examine your dog daily for developing conditions.

Regular grooming will help as well.

You’ll become aware of skin and coat conditions before they become serious, and you’ll have the opportunity to inspect him for symptoms of eye, ear and mouth conditions, for sudden weight loss or gain, and for scratches, abrasions and wounds that could become infected.

As a bonus, the time you spend together during your daily check and grooming will improve his disposition, as he receives the attention he craves from you.

Know Your Dog

Your dog symptoms of illness or injury will reveal themselves to you much sooner if you pay attention to his posture, gait, appetite and behavior.

But before learning about various symptoms, learn about canine vital signs and how to check them.

These signs are the baselines that will allow you to compare your dog’s rates with normal rates.

The information on these pages will help you learn about the symptoms of various physical problems that could affect your dog.

They are grouped by severity: Life-Threatening Injuries and Illnesses, Non-Life-Threatening Injuries and Illnesses, and Diseases and Conditions.

Some diseases and conditions have both chronic and acute symptoms. If the acute symptoms are life threatening, you’ll find them listed under Life-Threatening Injuries and Illnesses.

Many of the chronic diseases and conditions (such as allergies and skin conditions) can be managed easily — and even avoided — with some routine care.

The Basics

The Basics will give you the core information that will help you determine how injured or ill your dog is.

Vital Signs – These three baseline measurements will quickly tell you if something is not right with your dog.

Identify Pain – Pain is an excellent indicator that something is wrong. Since your dog can’t speak, you’ll need to know how to identify it.

Signs of Vomiting – Many people confuse vomiting with retching and other things that dogs do. Learn the difference so you can accurately describe your dog symptoms to the vet.

Causes of Vomiting – There are many causes of vomiting, from eating grass to serious illnesses.

Life-Threatening Injuries and Illnesses

Life-threatening injuries and illnesses are time-sensitive. The sooner you know the symptoms, the sooner you can begin dog symptoms first aid to stabilize her for transport to the clinic.

Non-Life-Threatening Injuries and Illnesses

Non-life-threatening injuries and illnesses can still be quite serious, but give you a bit more time to deal with them. Know the symptoms so that you can provide effective treatment. Burn Signs – Burns can be minor or serious. Learn how to quickly determine the nature of the burns.

Fracture Signs – Most fractures are not life-threatening, but all broken bones need treatment from a professional.

Pet First Aid – Heat Strokes and Shock – Everyone should know basic pet first aid. You never know when you’ll need to use first aid techniques. If you have a dog, then it is also important that you know how to administer first aid. Similar to human first aid, pet first aid techniques are easy to learn and perform. Here are a few tips for treating heat strokes and shock.

Diseases and Conditions

Diseases and conditions can have a wide array of symptoms. If they’re acute, you may need to get your dog to the vet quickly. You can probably treat chronic conditions yourself.

When you recognize your dog symptoms, you can provide the most effective first aid treatment.

A few hours invested now can save your dog a lot of pain and suffering, and perhaps even his life.

 

Here is an example of how your first aid kit can look and what should be in it.

(10) 5” X 8” Antiseptic Wipes (sting free)
(1) 2” Gauze Roll Bandage
(6) 2” X 2” Gauze Pads (3 two packs)
(6) 3” X 3” Gauze Pads (3 two packs)
(1) Flexible Cohesive Bandage
(1) 4oz. Hydrogen Peroxide Solution
(2) Antibiotic Ointment Packs
(1) Pair of Scissors
(1) .5 oz. Eye Wash (sterile)
(1) Pet First Aid Guide
(2) Exam Gloves (Latex & Powder Free
(1) ½” First Aid Tape Roll
(1) Tweezers
(10) 3” Cotton Applicator Swabs
(3) Sting Relief Pads
(1) Pet Information Label
(1) Doctor’s Bag Organized Case

You should all ways be prepared for you pet. You never know what can happen.

Fire Chif Gets A Slap On The Hand

Former L.A. County fire official gets 90 days in puppy beating

Glynn Johnson also is placed on three years’ probation, required to do 400 hours of community service working with dogs and must take anger-management classes.

A former Los Angeles County assistant fire chief was sentenced to three years’ probation Friday on animal cruelty charges for beating a puppy with a 12-pound rock, injuring it so severely that it had to be euthanized.

Glynn Johnson, 55, of Riverside also was required to do 400 hours of community service working with dogs, take anger-management classes and serve 90 weekend days in jail.

He could have been given four years in prison, and the sentence was immediately denounced by those hoping for more jail time as a “slap on the wrist.”

 


Before the sentencing, Johnson’s family and friends begged Riverside County Superior Court Judge J. Thompson Hanks for leniency. They said Johnson had saved people and animals as a firefighter and had been an exemplary father and husband. His friend Jerry Austin, who identified himself as a former Anaheim fire chief, said the trial “dehumanized” Johnson and “humanized” a dog.

“That is unfortunate,” he said.

Johnson apologized to neighbors Jeff and Shelley Toole and their son, Brandon, for the death of Karley, their 6-month-old Shepherd mix.

“I don’t hate animals. I have horses, cats, chickens and I would never destroy an animal for no reason,” he said. “My involvement here was me trying to help.”

That’s not how the jury saw it in a case that swiftly became a national rallying cry against animal abuse.

 

Prosecutors said Johnson had an ongoing vendetta against the Tooles over their animals and noise issues in their Woodcrest neighborhood. He was accused of putting dog excrement in their mailbox, shooting their former dog and a neighbor’s dog with a pellet gun and videotaping their children playing in the driveway.

On Nov. 3, 2008, Travis Staggs, a friend of the family, was taking Karley for a walk. As he approached the Toole home, Johnson appeared and volunteered to take her the rest of the way.

Eyewitnesses said Johnson had walked barely 100 feet when he started punching the puppy. Then he pulled her jaws apart and bludgeoned her at least 12 times in the head with a rock.

Karley’s nasal cavity was crushed, her skull was cracked in three places, her ear canal collapsed and she lost an eye in the assault. She was later euthanized.

Johnson went to the hospital seeking treatment for a bite he said came from Karley. He told investigators that he was simply defending himself against the dog.

The Toole family spoke in court Friday, asking that Johnson be given jail time and psychiatric help.

“I remember when I first met you,” Jeff Toole said, looking at Johnson. “I said ‘Hello’ and you ignored me and I said ‘Hello’ again and you said, ‘Can’t you see I’m . . . busy?’ I knew then that you would be the neighbor from hell.”

He said if Karley did to Johnson what he did to her, she would be facing the death penalty now. “Your penalty would be death too if I was the judge,” he said. “No one of sound mind would do the things you have done to our family. We continue to live in fear, wondering what you will do next.”

Shelley Toole said Johnson was a sociopath whose remorse was insincere. “You could have apologized that day,” she said. “Unfortunately for society, you will probably do this again.”

The judge expressed shock at the number of letters he had received about the case.

“I spent 14 years as a prosecutor and 22 years as a judge, and it is unusual to see this kind of outpouring from the community, including in the death of children,” he said. “I am a dog owner and I understand your feelings. What you do as a judge is seek balance.”

After the sentencing, some Karley supporters yelled “puppy killer” at Johnson as he emerged from the courtroom, smiling, with his lawyer, John Sweeney.

“I feel sorry for those shelter dogs who have to put up with you!” one woman shouted.

Sweeney called the sentence “measured.”

“I think the 90 days was a bit extreme,” he said. “It should have been straight probation.”

Johnson refused to comment.

Outside the courthouse, Johnson’s friends defended him. A large contingent showed up from Millennium Corvettes, a car club of which he is a member.

“He is not a sociopath,” said Tom White. “I never heard Glynn say a cross word to anyone.”

Jeff Toole said Johnson had been let off lightly: “I think he deserved a minimum of a year in jail. Was justice done for Karley? No.”

Some of those shocked by Johnson’s actions said they still thought the sentence marked a milestone for better treatment of animals.

“Ten years ago, a case like this wouldn’t even have gone to trial,” said Chris DeRose, president of Last Chance for Animals, a Los Angeles nonprofit. “This case went to trial and there are felony charges. He does three years’ probation and gets jail time. Every year animals get more and more rights.”

 

— This sentence was is a joke he should have gotten jail time. That poor gsd had to be put down because that man beat that poor dog so bad. That is why our system is so messed up! But he will be punished for what he has done. That man is a dog beater he should have gotten 3 years in prison.

.